Labelling a shampoo bar correctly under INCI standards means using the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic Ingredients to name every ingredient in a standardised way, then listing those ingredients in the correct legal order. For handmade and small-batch shampoo bar makers, this is both a legal requirement in most markets and a sign of a professional, trustworthy product.

What INCI means for a shampoo bar

INCI is the globally recognised naming system for cosmetic ingredients. It ensures that a consumer, regulator or poison control centre can identify exactly what is in a product, no matter where it was made. For shampoo bars, the same rules apply as for liquid shampoos: the ingredient list must appear on the label, use INCI names, and be ordered by concentration.

The golden rule: descending order by weight

The core labelling rule is simple: list ingredients in descending order of concentration at the time they are added to the final formula - or, more precisely, in descending order of their concentration in the finished product. The ingredient present in the largest amount goes first.

For a typical solid syndet shampoo bar, the first few ingredients might include:

  • Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate - a common mild solid surfactant
  • Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate - another anionic surfactant
  • Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil - a botanical oil
  • Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter - a butter or conditioning ingredient

Handling the special cases

Ingredients below 1%

Ingredients present at a concentration of less than 1% may be listed in any order after all the ingredients present at 1% or more. This is useful because many active ingredients, preservatives, and botanical extracts are used at very low levels.

Fragrance and allergens

Fragrance can simply be listed as Parfum or Fragrance. However, in the EU and UK, certain fragrance allergens listed in the Cosmetics Regulation must be declared individually if their concentration exceeds 0.01% in rinse-off products such as shampoo bars. Common allergens found in essential oils and fragrance oils include Linalool, Limonene, Geraniol, Citral, Citronellol and Eugenol.

If you use an essential oil, list the essential oil itself by its INCI botanical name - for example, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil - and then declare any allergen components above the threshold.

Colorants

Colourants may be listed at the end of the ingredient list in any order. In the EU, they should be identified by their Colour Index number, for example CI 77891 for titanium dioxide or CI 77492 for yellow iron oxide. Some mineral pigments also have INCI names, but the CI number is the standard label format.

Turning your formula into INCI names

This is where many small brands get stuck. You cannot simply use supplier trade names such as “SCI powder” or “BTMS-50”. You must convert each raw material to its official INCI name.

  1. Start from your full formula, including percentages.
  2. Replace every trade name or common name with the correct INCI name. Use official sources such as the EU Cosing database or the PCPC International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary.
  3. If you use a pre-blended ingredient, list the INCI components of that blend. For example, a conditioning emulsifier blend may be labelled as Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Behentrimonium Methosulfate.
  4. Remember to use Latin binomial names for botanical ingredients, such as Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter or Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil.
  5. Arrange everything into descending order, apply the under-1% rule, and place colourants and any mandatory allergens at the end.

Example shampoo bar ingredient list

A typical solid syndet shampoo bar label might read:

INGREDIENTS: Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Stearic Acid, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Parfum, Cetyl Alcohol, Panthenol, Tocopherol, CI 77891, Linalool, Limonene.

This list shows the main surfactants and oils first, followed by minor ingredients under 1%, then the colourant and fragrance allergens at the end.

Soap-based shampoo bars: a special note

If your “shampoo bar” is actually made by saponifying oils into soap, the label must reflect the resulting soap salts, not the original oils. For example, olive oil becomes Sodium Olivate, coconut oil becomes Sodium Cocoate, and castor oil becomes Sodium Ricinoleate. Listing the original oils instead of the saponified salts is a common INCI labelling error. True soap bars marketed as shampoo are also subject to different regulatory treatment in some regions, so check whether your product is considered a cosmetic or a soap under local law.

Other label elements you must not forget

An INCI ingredient list is only one part of a compliant cosmetic label. Depending on your market, you will also need:

  • Product name and function - e.g. “Solid Shampoo Bar for Normal Hair”
  • Net weight - in grams or ounces, shown on the package
  • Responsible person - the manufacturer, importer or distributor name and address
  • Batch code - for traceability
  • Period-after-opening symbol or best-before date if required
  • Any warnings or precautions - for example, “avoid contact with eyes”

Common mistakes to avoid

  • Using trade names instead of INCI names - always check the official name.
  • Forgetting to list allergens - essential oils and many fragrance oils introduce allergens that must be declared in the EU and UK.
  • Listing original oils instead of soap salts - a critical error for soap-based bars.
  • Incorrect ordering - ingredients must be in descending order, not alphabetical.
  • Leaving the ingredient list off the immediate packaging - if the bar is sold without an outer box, the list must be on the immediate container or on an attached tag.

Accurate INCI labelling is not just a bureaucratic hurdle - it protects your customers, keeps your brand compliant, and gives your shampoo bars the professional clarity they deserve. When in doubt, verify every INCI name against an official database and document your formula carefully.