Bhringraj (Eclipta prostrata or “false daisy”) is one of the most respected Ayurvedic herbs for hair and scalp care. It is traditionally used to support hair growth, reduce hair fall, and calm the scalp. When you make a shampoo bar with bhringraj, you are combining that herbal tradition with a modern solid-cleanser format. The easiest and most hair-friendly way to do this is with a syndet-based shampoo bar rather than a traditional lye soap bar, because syndet bars can be pH-balanced for hair.
Why pH matters for a bhringraj shampoo bar
Traditional cold-process soap bars have a high pH, usually between 8 and 10. Hair and scalp prefer a mildly acidic pH of around 4.5-5.5. A syndet bar made with ingredients like Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate gives you a solid shampoo bar that cleanses gently while keeping the cuticle smooth. Bhringraj works best when the bar is not overly alkaline, so a syndet recipe is the better choice for most DIYers.
Ingredients for a 200 g batch
This recipe makes about four to five shampoo bars, depending on your mold size. Use a digital scale for accuracy.
- Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate (SCI) - 120 g (60%): the main solid surfactant and cleanser
- Sodium Lauryl Sulfoacetate (SLSA) - 20 g (10%): adds fluffy lather
- Cocamidopropyl betaine - 20 g (10%): boosts mildness and foam
- BTMS-25 or cetyl alcohol - 10 g (5%): adds slip, detangling, and conditioning feel
- Shea butter or cocoa butter - 10 g (5%): helps the bar glide and protects the scalp
- Bhringraj-infused oil - 10 g (5%): see infusion method below
- Panthenol - 2 g (1%): optional, improves moisture retention
- Essential oil blend - 4 g (2%): rosemary, lavender, or tea tree work well
- Broad-spectrum preservative - 1 g (0.5%): recommended because the recipe contains liquid surfactant and botanical material
How to prepare bhringraj for the bar
You have two good options:
- Bhringraj-infused oil: Gently heat 1 part dried bhringraj leaves in 4 parts sesame or coconut oil in a double boiler at around 50-60°C (120-140°F) for 1-2 hours. Strain through a fine cloth and use 10 g of the infused oil in the recipe.
- Bhringraj powder: Use a very fine, sieved bhringraj leaf powder. Start with 3-5 g for a 200 g batch. Too much powder can make the bar gritty and overly dark. Mix the powder into the warm oils before adding other ingredients.
Equipment you will need
- Digital kitchen scale
- Heat-safe glass or stainless steel bowl
- Double boiler or a saucepan with a heat-safe bowl on top
- Silicone spatula
- Shampoo bar molds or a silicone muffin mold
- Disposable gloves
- Dust mask for handling fine powders like SLSA
- pH test strips or a pH meter, optional but helpful
Step-by-step instructions
- Sanitize your equipment and set up your molds.
- Melt the SCI, BTMS-25 or cetyl alcohol, and shea butter together in a double boiler on low heat. Stir gently until the mixture becomes a soft, waxy paste. SCI does not melt into a clear liquid, so do not overheat it.
- Remove from heat. Add the cocamidopropyl betaine, SLSA, bhringraj-infused oil or bhringraj powder, and panthenol. Stir well until the mixture looks like a uniform dough.
- If the mixture is too dry or crumbly, add 1-2 teaspoons of warm distilled water or aloe vera juice, a little at a time, and mix again. If you add water, the preservative becomes even more important.
- Let the mixture cool slightly. When it is still warm but comfortable to touch, stir in the essential oil blend and preservative. Mix thoroughly.
- Press the mixture firmly into your molds. Wear gloves and press down with a spatula or the back of a spoon to remove air pockets and create a smooth surface.
- Leave the bars in the molds for several hours or overnight until firm.
- Unmold and let them dry on a rack for 24-48 hours before first use. This helps the bars harden and reduces excess moisture.
Tips for the best bhringraj shampoo bar
- Use finely ground bhringraj powder if you choose the powder route. Coarse powder can make the bar feel scratchy on the scalp.
- Aim for a final bar pH of 4.5-5.5. If the pH is too high, add a small amount of citric acid dissolved in a tiny bit of water; if too low, add a little more liquid betaine.
- Store finished bars in a cool, dry place and keep them out of standing water between uses.
- Always patch-test bhringraj and essential oils on the inner arm before using on the scalp, especially if you have sensitive skin.
- Do not inhale fine surfactant powders. Weigh SLSA and SCI carefully while wearing a mask in a ventilated area.
You can also make a traditional cold-process soap-based shampoo bar by infusing bhringraj in your base oils and adding a small amount of bhringraj powder at trace. However, because lye soap has a high pH, it can leave hair feeling rough and may not be suitable for colored or delicate hair. The syndet recipe above is the better starting point for a truly hair-friendly bhringraj shampoo bar.